dragoon811: (Green Quill)
[personal profile] dragoon811
Has anyone out there ever made Snape's teaching robes before, or know where to purchase them for less than an arm and a leg? We're doing Ottawa ComicCon in May and while Bobby wants to do Snape again, he wants the complete look. (When I bought his costume, WWoHP was out of the robes. Alas.)

I am not the greatest sewer (fantastic at pillowcases, at least.) and am crap at modifying patterns. (I can sew a straight line, yay!) Any help would be amazingly helpful and most appreciated!!!

Date: 2016-01-17 02:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] toblass.livejournal.com
Talk to [livejournal.com profile] droxy, she might be able to help you/give you tips/advice.

Date: 2016-01-17 08:57 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
You want the movie look? What Snape wears in the movie is an oxford robe. It has tons of cartridge pleating that is seamed to the yoke. Yes Snape's robes are an arm and a leg. Cutting a cloak requires space, and for an oxford robe, for a tall person I am estimating about 11-14 yards of 60 inch fabric. That fabric has to be lightweight. Typically expect to pay 60-100 bucks in fabric alone, you will need lots of black thread. Now I make full circle cloaks for Snape, and they are equally impressive but take 7 yards of fabric and you can get the simple instructions on line for free.

There is a pattern by Mcalls I think for a Gandalf style wizard. This robe has sleeves, and a yoke. You would need to modify the back of the yoke pattern to mimic the oxford style. Then look up cartridge pleating and then expand the back panels accordingly. Snape's sleeves may also require cartridge pleating. You will need interfacing for the yoke. I would suggest using the lightest possible cloth for this. Broad cloth or shirting material comes to mind. Other like $ilk but $ilk is $$$.

This is not a hard project if you have basic sewing skills and understand patterning, and do not mind the tedious nature of cartridge pleating.

basic hints:
1- wash all fabric and dry it and iron it before pinning and cutting.
2- Iron, iron iron and iron those seams. LOL
3 baste first (6 stitch per inch), check, then finish stitch. This avoids excessive swearing.

Date: 2016-01-18 02:14 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
Thanks, Droxy! That's about what I was expecting in terms of fabric cost, thankfully.

We'd be fine if it isn't cartridge pleated or lined, as long as it has the forked back with a small train and the sleeves.

Would gabardine work, fabric-wise? My sister made my Snapron out of that and it flows fairly well. (And whatever slightly stretchy cotton my bathrobe is is phenomenal for billow...)

I'll have to see if I can find that pattern inexpensively. >,<.

(And I always wash and iron and I didn't think of basting, thank you!!!!)

Date: 2016-01-18 02:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
Forked back? Never heard of it. Oh you mean the slit on the back seam of the drape. Easy enough just don't sew that seam all the way to the bottom.

Sometimes fabric stores (Hancock, Joanne) have .99 cent sales on patterns, but inflation as driven that to closer to 2 bucks now.

Poly gaberdine would work fine. Many of my cloaks are exactly that. Another alternative is "table cloth" fabric in black. It's more generous in width usually, it's poly, and cheaper than fashion fabric. You can find this buried back in the upholstery section. =)

Date: 2016-01-18 04:30 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
Yeah, the film version of his cloak has a little fork. :)

I am sadly in Canada - our "sales" are "only $15!" lately, and fabric cost, well... Let's just say it's a good thing I bought the membership!

I really appreciate the advice and help!!! I really want to do the robes for him this year, but I don't have $300 or so to buy full-on replicas.

Date: 2016-01-18 06:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
Give me a few days. So blown away aweful busy.. I may have the pattern but it's used. May have one uncut. Every time a 99 cent hits, I stock up. If you recall my dumbledore robes, that's the pattern.

Date: 2016-01-20 12:23 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
If you can find one, that'd be great! I have my sister asking around as well, as she has lots of cosplay friends. (But she just started a new job, etc, etc...)

I've been searching the internets, too. :)

Date: 2016-01-20 11:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
Found a link for you. Yvette has made oxford robes and has a tutorial in parts 1 and 2.

http://www.yvettes.net/SeverusSnape.html

Dont get confused over the white fabric, this is a mock up! Although she mentions boxed pleats, these are "cartridge" pleats.

Date: 2016-01-20 11:37 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
The pattern I used that can be adapted is this>>>

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mccalls+3789

McCalls Costume Pattern 3789.

BE WARNED THAT THIS COMES IN CHILD SIZES MAKE SURE YOU GET ADULT. lol This pattern requires 11 yards of fabric if I recall.

What this pattern attempts to mimick is Gandalf the grey. By considering allowances for cartridge pleating, and the yoke from Yvette's page- this pattern can be modified into snape's teaching cloak ala movie. In short- allow for more fabric and extend the yoke. The Yokes is going to require lining, but only the yoke, and that's because you are going to need interfacing (get the heavy fusible stuff)

Just know Yvette is an advanced and very skilled seamstress and she make my stuff like like crap. She uses very pricey fabric. LOL But you can do robes and you can modify.

Date: 2016-01-20 11:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat/

how to cartridge pleat.

The "sleeve" is not closed at the bottom. On mine the 3 inch wide collar piece goes down all the way to the floor and the piece attached to it that hangs in front of the arm is triangular with the top 8 inches attached to the side piece. The side piece is half pleated starting in back and stops near the top of shoulder.

http://cdn.idigitaltimes.com/sites/idigitaltimes.com/files/2015/11/28/severus-snape-hermione-granger-ron-weasley-harry-potter-hp1-6x4.jpg

Date: 2016-01-26 03:55 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
Hi Droxy!! Sorry for not answering sooner, but I was keeping a hold of your replies in my Inbox so I wouldn't forget to look over them. :)

No one out here has the gandalf pattern (boo), BUT in my more-research, I found that some others suggest using the choir robes pattern (Butterick....5626? It's in the other room now lol) and looking at it, I think that's a better choice for my learning-to-sew-still skills. (As it has the pleating AND the yoke! I can make it longer, add the train/fork and fix the sleeves and I can always add more pleating) but the tutorials you linked are really going to come in handy!! Thank you so much!!! :-D

I now have 14 meters of a blackish blue fabric that won't shrink (and it was 50% off with my coupon, yay!) and three rolls of polyester thread, and a deep sinking fear in my gut of "oh god, oh no, I am going to ruin this"! :-D

I'm just a teeny bit terrified and making a to-do list in easy chunks, like.. measure Bobby. Cut out pattern. Modify pattern. Cry. Cry more. Wash and iron fabric. Sob brokenly.

You know, the usual!! I'm excited about this :-D Thank you, droxy!!! ♥♥

Date: 2016-01-27 02:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
LOL- well if you need help you can call me on the phone =) For me the worset of it is bleeping pattern instructions, and their strange language. I had to rely on the internet alot. I eventually bought a cheap book from a goodwill. It's a dated book, but sewing is sewing and it was worth the 2 bucks.

Date: 2016-01-18 08:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sparrowspark.livejournal.com
Just jumping in to say, your knowledge is awesome and I'm impressed ^_^

Date: 2016-01-20 11:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] droxy.livejournal.com
awe Thank you! But I am just a costumer

Date: 2016-01-18 04:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lenaa1987.livejournal.com
Black crepe? I've got a few long coats made out of that - gorgeous and light and wasn't expensive to have them made up by a tailor. This was overseas but I'm assuming that the material wouldn't be too expensive elsewhere? Very billowy.

Date: 2016-01-20 12:23 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
I shall have to check it out when I go to the fabric store, thank you!!

Date: 2016-01-26 03:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
Hellooooo! I checked out the crepe, and it's a bit slippery for me to wrestle with, though it flowed oh-so-nicely!! I bet your coats are amazing!!!!!

Date: 2016-01-18 08:21 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sparrowspark.livejournal.com
I made a pencil case once in high school. That is all. XD
and then some loser stole it out of my bag at the library ;_;

Date: 2016-01-20 12:24 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
In high school I made a plush scottie dog and a pair of boxer shorts, both of which I gave to my sister lol.

Date: 2016-01-20 04:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragoon811.livejournal.com
Yeah, I did the boxers out of a flannel plaid, sewed the fly closed, and added an iron-on daisy lol. they were super cute when they were done.

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